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The following is a partial list of the top flaws on replica watches. Eventually I'll get around to finishing this list. :)
Well this exerpt covers five of them anyways...
 So you found the watch of your dreams. The seller doesn’t want an arm and a leg for it either! What can you do to quickly check for counterfeiting? We’re not talking an in-depth review, just a few things that are obvious “tells” that will alert us we’re looking at a replica watch. I’ve categorized ten things that are always dead give-aways whenever I look at a watch or a photograph. Review these and apply these tests to a watch your examining:
1. The Crystal: Look for Reflection
Some manufacturers such as Panerai, Zenith, Corum, Girard Perregaux and Breitling (unfortunately not Rolex) use a thin coating on the surface of the crystal to reduce the effects of reflections. This tends to give the crystal a slight blue tint but can render it near transparent at most viewing angles. If the watch you’re inspecting is any one of these brands and not a vintage model, be concerned if there are a large number of reflections from the crystal at varying angles.
Modern high-end watches use an artificial sapphire for the crystal, as opposed to the treated glass that many low-end replicas use. The surest way to test for sapphire is to take the watch to a reliable watch repair shop. Sapphire is nearly as hard as a diamond and a true sapphire crystal would be resistant to scratching. Some people rely on misting water on the surface to look for beading, but I consider this an unreliable method. Typically sapphire is very transparent with sharp refractions while glass tends towards a greenish tint at the edges with undefined refraction.
2. The Case: Exhibition or Display Back
Where most replicas fall short is when the original watch has a see-through case back allowing the viewing of the movement. These watches tend to be hand-wound or automatic and have decorative effects such as polished gears and a Côtes de Geneve (wave-like patterns) finish on the movement. Most genuine manufacturers make their watch stand out with a truly beautiful presentation from this exhibition back.
Counterfeit watches, which rely on inexpensive unfinished Swiss or Asian movements, which have no decorations, are at a distinct disadvantage here. These watches reveal a very plain movement with little or no detail. The pieces of the movement look like they have been stamped from sheet metal (which is pretty much the case. These movements are highly mass-produced). One glance at the exposed movement will reveal the watch as counterfeit. Even attempts to dress up the plain movement with gold-tone plating and engraving fall short of the original.
The one notable exception to the rule with exhibition backs are the new replicas coming onto the market that use movements similar to the original watches. The Omega Speedmaster Professional, for example, uses a modified version of a Lemania 861 movement which looks beautiful behind an exhibition back. Several counterfeit watch makers are using this base movement to replicate the look of the original Omega with good success. Panerai, with their use of the Unitas 6497, is also vulnerable to copycats using the original base movement.
3. The Crown: One Piece or Fake
Cheap replicas (typically Rolex copies) might have the logo actually glued to the end of the crown. These watches have so many other flaws that this won’t be your first indication of problems. Make sure the crown shows no sign of glue or uneven edges. Also, the watch should wind smooth and free, without the feel of the movement moving in the case.
Some replicas emulate the engraving at the end of a crown with laser etching. Laser etching has no depth to it (if you run your fingernail over the surface it doesn’t “catch” in the grooves of the letters like it would for true engraving) and is rarely used on genuine watches. Laser etching has a “frosted” appearance.
Finally, some watches have jewels embedded in the end of the crown (Cartier comes to mind). On genuine watches this jewel is usually a precious or semi-precious stone like a sapphire or ruby. This stone will “sparkle” and have depth to the surface when examined. Replicas typically use a glass or crystal stone to copy the real thing. It normally can be picked out by its dull color or “glassy” appearance.
4. The Band: Cheap and Tinny?
Watches come with either leather/rubber/carbon fiber straps or metal bands. Straps are easy to replace and customize to the owner’s taste. That means a cheap department store strap takes 2 minutes to put on a genuine Patek Philippe if the owner wants it that way. When it comes to bands, ask if it’s original and look at the lining. Quality watch bands are padded or have a soft leather inner section. Just because it’s stamped with the manufacturer’s name does not mean it’s original.
Metal bands, on the other hand, are harder to duplicate. Most counterfeit watches with metal bands fall into two categories: cheap and tinny, or fairly close. A few of them, though, have nearly the same quality of build that the genuine watch has.
The cheaper bands are made of low-grade stainless steel or are even made of inexpensive pressed sheeting. They typically are held together with pins instead of the screws that most genuine manufacturers use (note that Omega does use pins in their bands). They are very light and are easily identifiable as not of the quality that a multi-thousand dollar watch should use.
The more expensive replicas use aftermarket replacement bands that are sold for the legitimate model, or are used on related models of that watch. They are of higher-quality steel and use screws in the band as does a genuine Rolex. There is still a difference in weight if not appearance. These replacement bands feel stiff and a bit flimsy when compared to a real Rolex band.
Some of the Omega counterfeit bands are very close to the original, and have accurate pins when compared to the genuine issue bands. They are harder to tell apart from an initial inspection. On such models focus on other issues such as the case back and dial when trying to identify replicas.
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