Home arrow Articles arrow Watchmaster's Corner arrow How A Chronometer Works Part II

Replica Book

Replica Watch Report
The Replica Watch Report reviews over 30 watches with detailed analysis and over 500 color photographs. Watches reviewed include the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Sea-Dweller, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT Master II, Day-Date, Panerai PAM-111, Omega Seamaster, and many more! Get your copy today!

Translations

English Français/French Deutsch/German Español/Spanish Italiano/Italian русско/Russian

Top Sites

Top 50 Watches
Top Watch Sites
Watches & Clocks sites at Top100.biz
Replica Watch Top 100

How A Chronometer Works Part II PDF Print E-mail
User Rating: / 4
PoorBest 
Articles - Watchmasters Corner
Written by Ziggy Zumba   
Article Index
How A Chronometer Works Part II
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4
user posted image

Reset to Zero

Resetting any sub-dial to the “0” zero position requires a heart piece and reset hammer.

Here is the heart piece (so named because it resembles a heart). When the hammer presses against it, it forces the dial to return to the neutral or zero position. A better view of the heart piece will come later when we do the seconds gear.

Here’s the hammer in action:

user posted image
user posted image

I want to point out a few area’s here, note how the cam activation post is just sitting barely in the arm assembly:

user posted image

And here is a view of the shaft without the arm, note the small pivot is off center and that’s how it moves the arm as it rotates:

user posted image

The other thing I want you to see, is this spring assembly. See how everything is just hanging on and sitting there, and then you are expected to keep all these pieces in place, and install this stupid little spring and expect the pieces to not move when they are barely holding on to start with…. I hate installing this spring……….but wait it gets better…….after your done this, a big honking bridge has to go over the whole thing, and if you slip one millimeter, “SPRONG” the whole thing flies apart…..that’s in part 3, unless I loose my mind by then……

user posted image
user posted image

Potential problems:

1. if your 12 hour sub-dial does not stay stopped, then the most likely problem is the plastic lever has come out of this notch.

user posted image

2. if you can’t reset the 12 hour sub-dial, then most likely these tabs are not lining up when the chronograph is OFF

user posted image

Important points to remember about this sub-dial

1 it is connected directly to the mainspring and runs all the time
2 with the chronograph OFF or Stopped, the clutch is slipping all the time and possibly wearing out
3 with the chronograph ON, the clutch is released, therefore the drag on the movement is reduced (the brake is off, so less resistance now) and the 12 hour wheel is free to rotate.

Now my favorite part, and no cheating…..

Questions

What position(s) of the chronograph are the most likely to cause the most wear to the 12 hour wheel and clutch, and what position has the most drag or friction on the basic movement:

Your choices are:

1. the OFF position
2. the ON or Running position
3. the Stopped position

If you answered 2, then you have failed and must send me all your reps (My address is Mr. PM, 24 Sussex Drive, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada).

If you answered 1 and 2, then you passed this part and can move on to the next one, and you get to keep your reps (for now, more quizzes to come, your not off the hook yet).

I will post Part 2A later this week, this is very time consuming to do up, and is getting too long, so probably best to break it up and not bore everyone to death with pictures and stuff.

Till next time….

RG

Articles  ETA  ETA 7750  Watchmasters Corner  Ziggyzumba 
Powered by Joomla Tags
Valid XHTML 1.0 Transitional


Ziggy Zumba
About the author:


Last Updated ( Tuesday, 14 August 2007 )
 
< Prev   Next >